By Justin PersonsSpecial to the Turnagain Times
By Justin Persons
Special to the Turnagain Times
I never thought that cabin fever was possible in the summer in Alaska! Geez, two days that reached 70 degrees. Oh well, there’s nothing I can do about it so complaining isn’t going to help. But, I will say that the wines from New Zealand have a sunny/livening effect on my days this “summer.” In June I had two weeks to go on hiatus and I chose New Zealand, one of the last places on Earth where the dollar is still strong. If I could live anywhere other than Girdwood I would choose N.Z. The country is as beautiful as Alaska, the people are friendly, the coffee strong, and the food & wine are absolutely world class.
I flew into Auckland, which is at the Northern tip of the North Island, and drove down to Hawkes Bay, down on the Southeast coast. Wow! What a drive. Hawkes Bay has a near identical climate to Bordeaux, France and is known for the same grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot (Petit Ver-dough) Mills Reef is a great winery here that makes an awesome Merlot/Malbec blend. I also found my new favorite N.Z. winery, Craggy Range. Their Sauvignon Blanc was so intense with aromas of grapefruit, guava, wet stone, and jalapeno! (I know the jalapeno thing sounds kooky but trust me; it’s a good thing.) The tart snappy acidity makes the mouth water and it is a great food wine to pair with seafood and cream sauces.
The Pinot Noir grapes from Craggy Range come from the Southern tip of the North Island in Martinborough. This wine is delicious and shows characteristics from all over the world: aromas of cola and blue fruits like the Russian River Valley in Sonoma, CA. Also has a forest-floor earthiness to it like Oregon and a minerally finish like Pinot from Burgundy, France. Basically it has everything you’re looking for in a Pinot Noir.
The wine that surprisingly stole the show for me though was quite a surprise: the 2004 Syrah. Unbelievably rich and bold. Aromas of pepper, black licorice, black olive, scorched earth, dried black fruits, and tar (don’t ask me where I come up with these tasting notes. I just say what I smell no matter how odd it sounds). This is a pepper steak wine through and through. Not an elegant Syrah, but a kick in the teeth kind of Syrah.
My travels then took me to the South Island into Marlborough, at the Northern tip of the South Island, just across the water from Martinborough. Vineyards as far as the eye could when flying in (It was a new sensation to travel South and the weather getting colder). Sauvignon Blanc is king here. Almost all wine producers purchase their S.B. grapes from Marlborough. The soil and climate are just perfect for this powerfully pungent grape. What makes Marlborough special is its unusual combination of long days, cool nights, bright sunshine, and dry autumns. The grapes ripen fully and the cool nights preserve their acidity.
I even found a ski resort that had just opened and I skied for a day! Sure, it was man made snow blown over glare ice and I was on rental skis that hadn’t been sharpened since 98’, but at least I can say I skied in the Southern Hemisphere. Then it was back to Auckland on the North Island where I took a ferry to a little place called Waiheke Island. I rented a scooter and stopped by a winery called Stonyridge. This winery tied for first place last year in the International Blind Wine Tasting of Paris for Bordeaux blends. Boy, were the French mad when they chose a New Zealand wine over their own. This winery has a cult following and I could see why after tasting a 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon of theirs.
I have always been a fan of N.Z. Sauvignon Blanc but now I am in Love with all of their wines. Trust me when I say the wines are world-class and delicious. If you can’t go to N.Z. you can get a taste of what the country has to offer in their wines. Try some of the wines and maybe you too can taste a little sunshine this summer. Until next time when we will explore another grape and the wine it creates.
Justin Persons is co-owner of the Double Musky Inn Restaurant in Girdwood and is a level II Sommelier certified specialist in wine.