Prehistoric shell mounds found in southern Louisiana are proof that Native Americans feasted on oysters for thousand of years before early French settlers harvested them. However, serious oyster cultivation in Louisiana began with the arrival of Slavonian fishermen in the mid-1840’s.
Working in the estuary waters south of New Orleans, the Slavonians developed the modern system of cultivation, transferring oysters from overcrowded reefs to more favorable beds with good salinity and a steady current. Oystermen have leased these water bottoms from the state since 1902. Now thousands of leases, spread over great stretches of coastal land, are operating along the Louisiana shoreline.
Today’s oysterman travels aboard a motorized boat towing a dredge that scoops “seed oysters” from public grounds. They haul them back to their lease, then washes them overboard. They are left to grow for one to two years, then dredged onto the lugger, where they’re cleaned for the market, and bound for raw bars, cast-iron frying pans soup pots and grills, then finally the shells are used as covering down the driveway.
Down on the bayous of Lafitte, Louisiana, where we would run straight to the dock on Saturdays to blow our entire twenty-five-cent allowance on “the salty, slippery bliss of raw oysters,” downing a cool two dozen fresh off the boats. We passed along this old family recipe, which our mother made with wild raccoon oysters, named for the resourceful creatures that often beat humans to the harvest.
This unabashedly retro dish is still served at many Creole homes and restaurants.
- 4 sturdy rosemary branches OR 4 bamboo skewers, each about 12 inches long
- 6-8 thin slices best quality bacon
- 12-16 oysters, shucked
- 1/4 lemon
- Freshly ground white or black pepper
- 8 thin slices French bread, toasted and buttered, or 8 buttered toast points
1. If using rosemary sprigs, strip off most of the leaves, keeping about 2 inches of leaves at the top. Soak the rosemary branches or bamboo skewers in water to cover for 30 minutes. Preheat the broiler (grill), or prepare a fire in a charcoal grill for direct grilling over high heat.
2. Cut the bacon in half crosswise. In a small frying pan over medium-heat, fry the bacon until lightly browned but still flexible, about 3 minutes on each side. Drain on paper towels.
3. Place the oysters on a plate, squeeze the lemon evenly over them, and then season the oysters with several grinds of pepper. Wrap each oyster in a half bacon slice, and thread 3 - 4 oysters on each sprig or skewer.
4. Place the sprigs or skewers on the grill rack about 5 inches from the fire and grill, turning once, until the bacon is crisp but the oysters are still plump and juicy, 3-4 minutes on each side. Alternatively, arrange on a broiler pan or a rimmed baking sheet, place under the broiler, and broil (grill), turning once, for about the same amount of time.
5. Remove the skewers from the grill or broiler. To serve, divide the bread slices among individual plates and slide the oysters off the skewers onto the bread.
Serve at once. Serve with a dry white wine, such as a Chablis or Fume’ Blanc to enhance the salty oysters and smoky bacon.
Well, I hope you enjoy this little bit of history and my recipe. So, until next time…Bon Appétit.
The Cajun Queen