By Brian Stoecker
Turnagain Times Correspondent
A sense of silent isolation can be found inside of an hour, in the middle of a frozen lake, before the rugged face of a sweeping glacier. While an endless parade of traffic marches through Portage Valley in the summer months, it is largely forgotten in winter.
Of the valley’s many gems, its crown jewel is the namesake glacier. Unlike in summer, it is accessible across Portage Lake, free of charge. You need only a pair of sturdy legs, a working knowledge of potential hazards, and the appropriate precautions. Recreating on the lake is legal, however the US Forest Service warns against it, due to its unique perils.
“Oh it’s so dangerous!” exclaimed Geri Williams. Among other threats, she cited an avalanche that broke through the frozen lake, years ago. From a mile away, it created a seiche wave that transformed the lake’s surface into an ice-puzzle, before crashing ashore like a tsunami.
“It threw ice into the parking lot,” Williams said. “Luckily, there was no one on the lake at the time.”
Geri and her mother, Marilyn, have operated Portage Glacier Lodge (with Marilyn’s late husband, Gary) since 1983. The lodge is nestled into a hillside atop the glacier’s 1914, terminal moraine.
With their unique vantage point, the Williams have witnessed a lot over the years—from the massive bergs that formerly towered near shore, to the glacier’s retreat around the bend and out of sight. But they speak of the wonders of the valley, as if each one was brand new.
“The trails are incredible out here; they really are,” Marilyn said.”
Area trails receive considerable winter use. Geri recommends the four-mile, Trail of Blue Ice. Marilyn prefers a shorter loop, due to its bio-diversity, rather than length. She describes her trail with tireless joy.
“You go from full-sunshine flora, to full-shade flora. And in such a short distance,” she said.
Aside from visiting the city of Whittier, Portage Lake and its glacier are the destination of most who visit the valley.
Due to fluctuating snow conditions on a near daily basis, the ideal mode of traversing the three miles to the glacier, is upon classical Nordic skis. Current variations upon the lake allow only intermittent skate skiing. If choosing to simply hike, prepare to plunge your foot through the snow crust, and into overflow. Skis also displace your weight in the event of thin ice.
Portage Glacier remains very much alive in winter. Its gradual advance into the lake may fracture the ice, opening leads several yards wide, a half mile or more from its face. Any snow upon newly forming ice, could render a lead undetectable. Currently, the glacier’s activity has created a pressure ridge, several hundred yards out, which should alleviate the risk of open water beyond.
As ice does not compress (anywhere but the belly of a glacier where it assumes elasticity) a pressure ridge may initially form with a deadly explosion of ice. This could still occur where the present ridge is inactive or discontinuous. Near the active ridge, in the crisp winter air, the only sound is the snapping of the advancing ice. The overflow about the ridge disguises itself as open water. It’s best to respect the facade.
Do not approach the glacier—it never sleeps. In recent weeks, Portage calved a thousand tons. A calving can hurl debris a hundred yards and obliterate the ice beneath your feet.
Outside the pressure ridge, hazards are somewhat limited. Scores of people have recently laid tracks to that point. Gazing upon the glacier from there, as the ridge breaks the silence with its staccato song, is quite a reward. The pristine trek to and from, make it more so.
Naturally, a perfect end to the day can be found in the homespun warmth of the nearby Portage Glacier Lodge (Winter hours: 10-5, Friday through Monday). Like a step back in time, the atmosphere and genuine hospitality evoke images of a bygone day. The summer hoards are gone. And solely for the winter faithful, the menu is enhanced, and the chili made from scratch.