Brian Stoecker/Turnagain Times
Deb Essex of Girdwood, skis across a one of two tied arch bridges on the Trail of Blue Ice in Portage Valley. The bridge passes over a salmon stream visible from Portage Valley Highway. The recently completed trail weaves through the forest, along two glaciers, and over several scenic bridges.
By Brian Stoecker
Turnagain Times Correspondent
Portage Valley's winter wonders grew more accessible with the addition of the Trail of Blue Ice. The two-year, multimillion-dollar project was completed last summer. The trail extends nearly the length of the valley, weaving in and out of the forest, from Moose Flats to the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center.
The trail is ideal for snowshoeing and Nordic skiing. Hiking may be more trouble than it's worth, due to the valley's abundant snowfall. Furthermore, hikers make the trail punchy, thus less enjoyable for skiers. If you choose to hike, please endeavor to respect the ski track.
There are four winter access points for the trail, depending on snow removal efficiency. The Moose Flats Day Use Area is the trailhead on the north (left) side of the Portage Highway. The only drawback is that the trail crosses the road within a mile, interrupting your ski.
The next access at Explorer Glacier is ideal. From there you needn't cross a road until nearly reaching Portage Lake, about four miles away. The Explorer Glacier parking lot is typically plowed throughout the winter.
Half way between Explorer and the lake, crews usually clear a niche large enough for two or three cars at the Black Bear Campground. It's fairly steep, so be certain you can get out before pulling in. Near here, there is a serpentine bridge with a railing on only one side. Be cautious of the other side. If your pole gets stuck between the floor slats, it can cause you to teeter and trip over a six-inch beam, then tumble several feet to the snow below.
The final access point is at trail's end at the visitor center, or the Portage Glacier Day Lodge if you prefer. For the first time in years, the center is again open weekends for the winter. There is an exclusive winter bonus as well. The exhibits and movie are free of charge.
As always, the landmark Day Lodge that time forgot, has returned to winter hours: Friday through Monday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. No matter how cold and wet your adventure leaves you, you somehow depart the lodge warm and dry with a contented smile. And something for your bucket list: The homemade chili from scratch, available to winter guests only.
Portage Valley offers several other ski/snowshoe options. The road to Byron Glacier Trail will remain snowed in through April, so your ski will be four miles instead of two. But it's a great ski. It's recommended that you not cross Byron Creek or proceed into the open valley due to avalanche danger. There, avalanches from both sides will cross the entire valley without warning.
On the north side (left) of Portage Lake, there is a parking lot giving access to both the lake and Bear Valley, further north. The advantage to this access to the lake is that Portage Glacier is in view for your entire ski (or skate, conditions permitting). Avoid the sheer cliff, left of the lake, due to frequent avalanches. Be aware that the lake often doesn't freeze safely until February.
Bear Valley is the loneliest corner of Portage Valley. If you seek solitude, that's your huckleberry. Both sides of the valley are susceptible to avalanche, but the middle is generally out of reach.
The popular access to Portage Lake is the visitor center parking lot. From shore, expect to see walkers, skiers and the occasional kite-boarder. Portage Glacier has retreated out of view, three miles away, but can be reached in under an hour on Nordic and even skate skis.
Exploring the lake is legal, but discouraged by the U.S. Forest Service due to numerous hazards. Among others, the glacier's movement pushes against the ice, creating open leads, hundreds of yards from the glacier itself. When the leads freeze, the ice is clear and the water black, making it difficult to determine its thickness. A dusting of snow will obscure dangerously thin ice. It can't hurt to bring a buddy, ice axe and a rope.
“The lake is so dangerous!” exclaimed Geri Williams, owner of the Portage Glacier Day Lodge. She cited an avalanche that penetrated the ice years ago. It caused a seiche wave, which pulverized the surface, creating an ice-puzzle, before crashing ashore like a tsunami. She added, “It threw ice into the parking lot.”
Portage Glacier never sleeps. A calving can hurl debris a hundred yards and obliterate the ice beneath your feet. Use caution and do not approach the glacier beyond the pressure ridge. From there, safely surrender to the silent majestic bliss.
