Early winter outdoor recreation awaits you on Turnagain Arm

By Brian Stoecker
Turnagain Times Correspondent

Too late to hike? Too early to ski? Not so fast. There are plenty of both to be found.

No matter the season or snowfall, the Bird Ridge trail is blown wide open every Sunday afternoon, except on Super Bowl Sunday—that is when a cadre of mountain runners break trail to at least the 3,200 foot false-summit, three miles from the trailheads near Milepost 101 of the Seward Highway. Beware of sporadic glare ice and inclement weather. A tepid welcome at sea level may deteriorate into a blustery assault on the ridge. Hikers often use studded shoes and ski poles to manage the difficult trail. Nix the skis for now. The mountain remains unready to ride.

Early season skiing and boarding can be found in Turnagain Pass, where a dozen cars occupied the Tincan Peak pullout (Milepost 70, Seward Highway) as of last Friday, Nov. 13.

Fresh from a downhill ski run, Christian Page of Anchorage, and Hugh Gren of Eagle River, described the snow as suitable, but nothing to brag about. A few stretches of good snow made it well worth their while. Page also described areas of windswept ground, similar to that which broke Nora Tobin's back, barely two years ago.

Further south, at least two climbers braved Sunburst Mountain. None could be seen on Magnum, which displayed considerably less snow.

Nordic skiers may also find good snow throughout the lowlands of Turnagain Arm. Konrad Mittelstadt of Indian has been laying tracks up and down the valley, adding, “The Indian to Arctic trail is good to go.”

Portage Pass near Whittier currently has far less snow than one might expect. It bears enough to ski with caution, but not so much to discourage the determined hiker. Rocks along trail's edge impede the downhill ski, and snowdrifts will deter the hiker's ascent.

But, for now, the trail remains in good enough condition for both, well beyond the summit. Due to the forthcoming avalanche threat from Maynard Mountain, traversing the pass via the traditional trail will soon become too hazardous to recommend, then buried in punchy snow through May. Before venturing forth, survey the snow load on the slope above, to determine if it's safe to proceed.

Ice skaters? Potter Marsh has been frozen and skated for weeks.

Alas, the jewel of early winter day hikes.

The ice caves near Byron Glacier, along the southeast edge of Portage Valley, had both skiers and hikers on Friday, Nov. 13, including a crew from Reader's Digest. The easy trek to the glacier is about a mile or so, provided the road remains open. If not, add two miles to the round trip.

One hiker, Megan Bauman, explored the depths of the primary cave. Researchers, Roman and Peggy Dial, were tracking the mysterious ice worm for observation and study. Bauman, newly transplanted from Minnesota, knew nothing of ice worms, saying, “I thought you all were messing with me.” That was prior to the Dials locating several groups of ice worms and sharing additional esoteric data.

The ice cave is quite stable. That is the rule. The four evident exceptions include the collapse of an outer wall, two ice chunks on the ballroom floor, and a failing skylight in the deepest corridor. Thus “stable” does not necessarily mean “safe”.

The ballroom lies beyond a low passageway and is dimly lit via three openings. Flowing water and iced over rocks are frequently obscured by shadow. A flashlight is handy, but must be shut off to marvel under the rarified light.

The odds of safely exploring the cave are in your favor. But with the unambiguous certainty of future falling ice, entering remains akin to Russian roulette, where one live round awaits in any of a thousand chambers. Proceed at your own risk.

Once your day trek is complete, treat yourselves and revel in the day, amid the warm environs of Portage Glacier Lodge. Your hosts, Geri and Marilyn Williams, have again dusted off their homemade chili recipe, reserved for the winter faithful. Be sure to mind your watch. Seasonal hours are 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Friday through Monday.