By Justin Persons
Special to the Turnagain Times

What a wonderful summer! Did you get outside and enjoy a dry Riesling in the sun? A bright, fresh California Pinot Noir? All of that sun reminded me of the good ol’ days. You know the days that lasted forever and the sun shined for weeks at a time. I enjoyed it immensely and look forward to a snow filled winter. Well, we have a while until the snow flies in our valley so this fall we can reminisce the days of summer with wine from another special valley—the Rhone Valley.

The Rhone Valley is located in the southeast of France and is divided into two parts: the Northern Rhone and the Southern Rhone. Red wine dominates both regions but there are amazing white wines to be sure. The red wines of the Rhone are perhaps the most untamed and hedonistic in the world. Intense smoky black fruit aromas and surges of sweet earthiness explode from the glass. The cascade of spiciness in these wines has no equal. The primal flavors and aromas of Rhone wines are the equivalent of a powder face shot on the North Face (If you ski, you know what I mean. If you don’t, believe me when I say it’s a good thing.)

Syrah is the only red wine made in the North. The appellations of the North are Cote Rotie, Hermitage, Crozes Hermitage,(Crows-Ermi-tajh) and Cornas. If you see these on a bottle of red wine then rest assured that it is Syrah. The flavor that is most prevalent in these wines is white pepper. But that’s only the tip of the iceberg. After the initial burst of white pepper comes aromas of leather, blackberries, blueberries, incense, and forest floor followed by gamy/meaty flavors. I know the taste profile sounds strange but trust me when I say that these wines are among the most delicious in the world. Rack of lamb, Osso Bucco, anything grilled, and smoky cheeses are perfect matches for this wine.

The white wines of the Northern Rhone are either 100 percent Viognier (Vee-yon-yay), and/or a blend of Marsanne and Roussanne. (Mar-sahn and Roo-sahn.) Condrieu is the appellation that grows Viognier and that is what is designated on the bottle. If you want to splurge and try a one of a kind wine that is utterly mesmerizing try a Condrieu. The Viognier is decadently lush and full-bodied with its flavors of white peach, nectarine, pineapple, and honeysuckle.

The other appellations are Hermitage Blanc, Crozes-Hermitage Blanc, and St. Joseph Blanc, which the main grape of the blend is Marsanne. Roussanne is added for its finesse and exotic flavors of peaches and lime blossoms. These whites are the perfect compromise between sweet and dry. If you can find these wines at your wine shop then please do yourself a favor and try them.

The wines of the Southern Rhone Valley are more well known and readily available than wines from the North. Whereas the North is based on one red grape, the South is made up of a combination of up to 14 grape varieties. There is a very good reason for the myriad of grapes: the South gets much hotter and the heat can cause Syrah to over ripen and lose its precise focus of flavors. Other grapes adapt well to the heat but cannot stand alone as much of a wine so therefore blending is a way of creating a whole that is more than the sum of its’ parts. Grenache makes up the dominant portion of most Southern Rhone blends and has very expressive aromas and flavors of cherry and candied raspberry jam. Syrah is important in the South as well as the North. Mouvedre is a major grape that gives structure, acidity, and flavors of leather and game. Cinsault, Calitor, Counoise, Muscardin, Terret Noir, and Vaccarese are all red grapes allowed in blends. What a variety for a winemaker to choose from!

The most famous Southern Rhone blend is Chateauneuf du Pape. (New Castle of the Pope.) This is a special wine with intense earthiness in the backdrop of tar, leather, and crushed stone. This is a Pepper steak wine all the way! Gigondas (Gee-gon-das) is just North of Chateauneuf du Pape and is even more rustic in style. This is a wine where the old-fashioned wine making techniques of the past show through in the wine. These are deliciously rough wines without a lot of polish to them. Fresh bread with olive oil, garlic, and herbs long for this wine. Cotes du Rhone (Banks of the Rhone ) is blends both red and white that offer incredible value. These blends are the perfect introduction to Chateauneuf and Gigiondas for ¼ the price. Perfect for dinner parties because they pair well with food and are crowd pleasers.

We’ve all had plenty of wines from California, Australia and Italy, so let’s venture outside the box and try some wines from the South of France. The Rhone Valley offers exquisite flavor and a broad range of quality wines at all price points. Take some time this Fall and familiarize yourself with these beauties as the leaves turn gold and the cold wind blows.

Until next time when we’ll explore another grape and the wine it creates!

Justin Persons is a co-owner of the Double Musky Restaurant in Girdwood.