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Photo courtesy of Andy Morrison Kayakers at Twentymile Glacier Lake paddle towards a massive iceberg in the background. The lake is up the Twentymile and Glacier Rivers. |
By Andy Morrison
Special to the Turnagain Times
Glaciers, wilderness, wildlife, mountains, icebergs and waterfalls are part of what experiencing Alaska is all about. Getting off the beaten path is the best way to do it, and boating local rivers floats you by it all.
Girdwood is surrounded by Chugach State Park and Chugach National Forest, arguably some of the most pristine and scenic areas of Alaska.
The mountains here collect the winter snows as moisture-laden Gulf of Alaska storms clash with the towering peaks. For thousands of years, more snow has fallen in a year than what melts. This created our mountain top ice fields and glaciers.
The proximity to glaciers is virtually unmatched in Alaska. That said, driving up to one in a car is not really an option. However, a three hour round-trip can take you to the face of a glacier on the Twentymile River. To do this jet boats are utilized. These boats are highly maneuverable and built for Alaska’s glacial rivers.
Icebergs are prevalent in Twentymile Glacier Lake. They calve from the glaciers face as the weight of snowfields above push the rivers of ice into the lake. The cool waters preserve these sculpted giants throughout the summer. The color is “so blue” and there are always sounds: dripping, cracking, popping and sometimes thundering! It is almost like the icebergs are alive.
Wildlife is everywhere, often the only thing keeping you from seeing it is patience and a keen eye.
Sometimes moose walk right through town, so keep that camera ready. Of course getting out into the habitat is important, too.
To get out into the wild, rivers serve as great natural highways into the backcountry. Just a small portion of the state is connected by roads, for the rest of Alaska, rivers are the roads.
Local rivers and creeks like California Creek, Glacier Creek and Twentymile River support runs of salmon and hooligan also called candle fish. This creates frenzy when these androgynous (sea run) fish arrive in the rivers. Beluga whales, sea lions and seals are close behind, sometimes traveling several miles upriver. Eagles wait in the trees above with a keen eye on the waters, watching them swoop on prey is awe-inspiring.
Bears, wolverine and wolf take over when the sea critters turn around. Banks are often littered with salmon carcasses along the clearwater creeks that many species of salmon spawn in. Beaver are nearby too, the effects of which can readily be seen in most of our waterways. Lodges, dams and huge trees brought to the ground are evidence of their industrious nature.
Waterfalls and gorges are prevalent in the Turnagain Arm Area, too. A hike to the cable hand tram crossing Glacier Creek highlights some of these unique features. Winner Creek Gorge has mesmerizing falls that have carved its smooth walls. While rafting Glacier Creek many waterfalls tumble into Glacier Creek Gorge with views of the glacier sources above.
Rivers and creeks get us to the real Alaska, away from its highways and into the backcountry that so many of us seek. Getting out there is what it is all about, so get off the beaten path and raft, kayak or jetboat into the wilds of Alaska. Adventure, wildlife and glacier views are around every corner.
Andy Morrison is owner and lead guide at Alaska Backcountry Access LLC, which offers jet boating and kayaking tours on Twentymile River and rafting trips on Glacier Creek. Call (907) 783-3600.